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"New
Realities"
Area Paris edition 18. exclusively in Paris. October 3-6. |
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Rebels against "Control" As larger labels and manufacturers claim to be purveying avant-garde, the fact is, many of their ideas and offerings have been coming from other artists, whose focus and desire is to truly create. Ignored by magazines who write only about advertisers, for years these working designers have developed bodies of work that move from the poetic to the complex to the innuendo. Until now, their work has been admired primarily by insiders and colleagues...but at the 18th edition of Area Paris, you will have the opportunity to get to know these astonishing designer artists--who always manage to surprise, and whose sole constant is change
B.O.R.N. Editions: Norbert Fiddelers / Chequita Nahar "Precious Dutch" B.O.R.N. began as an experiment by Dutch artist and textile-designer Norbert Fiddelers to combine painting, sculpture, and fashion. In 1999, he made his first collection of 50 pieces for women, all of them painted, collaged, and assembled by hand. He took the collection to New York, where he was offered a booth at a trade show in exchange for taking photographs. When asked to pick a name for the sign for his booth, he chose “BORN,†after the city of his birth. To his surprise, the first collection was bought by stores like IF in New York and HaNNa in Tokyo. Since then, B.O.R.N.'s unique one-of-a-kind pieces have been carried by leading designer shops in New York, London, Paris, Rome, Milan, Treviso, Kuwait City, Beirut, Fukuoka and Tokyo. Autumn/Winter 2007-2008 is B.O.R.N.’s 16th season. "Our theme is called "precious dutch" where we will use a feature program and work with a series of objects made by the collaborators from our studio presented in boxes. Precious Dutch is a bit better and a more diplomatic name than my first title in mind "Meet this Fokker" (Fokker is the dutch word for breeder") and will contain elements about horsebreeding,exotic horse names and dutch talents in general." B.O.R.N. can be difficult to describe. Norbert Fiddeler’s methods are unusual among designers--he rarely begins a garment with the finished product already in mind; instead, each piece is allowed to develop organically as an individual artwork. For this reason, he can work on a single garment for months or even years before it’s completed, and a single garment can feature multiple techniques, from painting and print to beading and embroidery. Every piece is handmade and unique, and most are made from recycling and reworking existing garments and textiles. B.O.R.N. museum exhibitions include the Musée Galliera in Paris, the Bonnefanten Museum in Maastricht, and the Sharjah Art Museum in the United Arab Emirates. The architect Zaha Hadid and the singer Chara are also clients. Showing in Paris exclusively at Area for the 6th time. Distribution extremely limited.
Kohshin Satoh "Miles Davis: lines, drawings and paintings" The legendary Japanese master continues his remarkable comeback The legendary Japanese Master continues his remarkable comeback with a new collection based upon his extensive personal art collection of line drawings and paintings by Miles Davis. A close friend of Davis and Andy Warhol (he dressed them for decades), Satoh has one of the world's largest art collections of Miles Davis. He began his career in Tokyo in the early 1980's as part of the Tokyo designer wave with Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yammamoto and Matsuda, with his fashion shows in Japan being attended by thousands in football stadiums. Recently, his hyper-lux rock and roll pieces have been seen at the world's best stores in Moscow, London, Milan and Paris. His celebrity clients are numerous, kept secret, and now rumoured to also include Paris's biggest living designer. Showing for the 8th time exclusively at Area in Paris. Distribution extremely limited.
Sandra Bamminger: House of Boing "Hatventures" a brilliant artist from Central Saint Martins comes to Paris for the very first time... House of Boing was started in London by Austrian designer and multimedia artist Sandra Bamminger in 2000 following her graduation from the Central Saint Martins womenswear fashion design program and working with Clements/Ribeiro, Jessica Ogden and Eley/Kishimoto. House of Boing aims to add kinetics to people’s lives by fashioning objects and environments to remind them of childhood curiosity and excitement. For this, Bamminger brings together designers, artists and performers from the arts in London to create collaborative works in site-specific projects, installations, environments and film work. She has collaborated and worked on gallery pieces, independent shows, performances and art installations in London, Holland and Vienna, including dance and performance pieces for Siobhan Davies Dance 2006-7 US & European Tours, the Glastonbury Festival, the Sadler's Wells "Lilian Baylis", The Albany, and Bonnie Bird Theatres in London, Museums-Quartier in Vienna; and special film projects for Kate Spade New York. This year, her work received the Iqons.com 15 Minutes of Fame award in January, has appeared in feature stories in the the May and April issues of Kult Magazine, and the July issue of Total Spec. In September, she was invited to collaborate in London on a special dance fashion show with Mark Eley from Eley/Kishimoto organized by legendary music writer Paul Gorman. In Paris, she will present "Hatventures", her new boing hat collection which translates the kinetic fashion in motion ideas into hats along with special dresses created for the concept. A sister collection is being worn by the Austrian national judo team at the World Judo Championships in Rio de Janeiro this month. Showing in Paris for the very first time to the world market. Exclusively at Area 18. Distribution limited.
Geoffrey B. Small "Schola" Always controversial, and always way ahead... After his revolutionary fashion collection presentation via webcast during men's fashion week in Paris at Area Live Shoot Part 2 (coming soon to your screen), being chosen for Daab's new Young European Designers book this year, and his radical turn to medieval-style after getting everyone from John Galliano to Comme des Garcons, Balenciaga and Dolce&Gabbana to follow his 18th and 19th century Napoleonic-style movement; Geoffrey B. Small will unleash his new "Schola" for women spring/summer 2008 collection. The collection will feature his new take on monastic, medieval and college style with a secret warning message about the dangers of growing illiteracy and stupidity in western industrialized countries--along with serious cutting-edge pieces in superlight and superlux fabrications, treatments, cuts and details; remarkable medieval sport shoes, and an advanced new pricing policy designed to counteract world Euro currency valuations and sub-prime panic. What about futuristic fashion? "The way we are going, the middle ages is our future." he predicts. Always controversial, and always way ahead, (he has been a pioneer of ethical and ecological fashion and recycling for almost 15 years) Small's work has been acquired by David Beckham, Johnny Weir, Veruschka, and Celux Louis Vuitton Japan, and is the winner of MTV Germany's Designerama award. Small maintains one the tightest distributions of any designer, working with only about 15 top stores in the world per season. World
presentation exclusively at Area 18. Showing in Paris for the 53rd time
to the world market. Distribution extremely limited.
L.G.R. Sunglasses "simple, genuine, and no logos"...Luca G. Ruscone has a beautiful story and a maverick new concept in eyewear We recently got a tip from Mario Lemme at Degli Effetti in Rome. As the world's leading show for independent design and research, naturally, we at Area looked into it immediately. We discovered a maverick in the world of sunglasses--where 98% of the offerings come from only four mega-companies (Luxottica, Marcon, Safilo et al) and the emphasis is on superficial branding rather than real product and substance-- and, we found a remarkable story that speaks for itself.... "Some
years back I was in Eritrea, in Oriental Africa to accompany my 90-year
old grandfather. He had lived in Eritrea for 30 years, until revolution
struck in 1974, and he had to flee the country leaving all his
possessions--as they were nationalized by the new
communist regime. In 2001, the Italian Government called my grandfather
telling him that they managed to recuperate some of his possessions in
Eritrea. I stayed with him in Asmara for over a month, and came to
discover an old warehouse full of Italian imports from 1960. Among
those, I found many old spectacle frames which my grandfather used to
sell in Eritrea and Ethiopia. I took a handful of them, brought them to
Italy and fitted them with sunglass lenses. I immediately noticed that
they were special; elegant, cool, and unexpectedly trendy. My friends
wanted them so much, that I started having them sent to me from
Eritrea; from that old, forgotten crate in the
warehouse. Â
In 2005, a shop asked me if they could have some them to sell. I had
never considered making a business out of them, but the idea was
tempting. However, frames in the warehouse were running out, so I
contacted the original manufactures in India, in Bombay, and asked them
if they could still make those old models of spectacle frames. They
recuperated the old molds and sent me the new samples. They were
beautiful: made of cellulose acetate imported from Italy (Mazzucchelli
Acetate), and hand crafted, using flex hinges from France. They were
the exact clones of the ones I found the time before in Africa. In Florence, I found an artisan which made cases and personalized them with my initials. I got the lens from Barberini, the world leader of crystal lenses; tempered, 100% UV protection and resistant to impacts and scratches. I wrote a short descriptive story and printed it on the cleaning sheets for the lenses. I made tags describing the lenses and frames together with the international safety norms they comply with. Increasingly, more and more people showed their interest for this classic vintage collection, and today the production and retail of these sunglasses is my full time occupation, which spreads across India, Africa and Europe." --Luca Gnecchi Ruscone Currently selling at Degli Effetti Roma and about 20 select optical shops in Italy, Luca Ruscone's L.G.R. sunglasses retail attractively at around 100-150 euros. He will be showing his sunglass collection in Paris for the very first time to the world market exclusively at Area edition 18. Distribution limited.
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the new Made in Italy With Italy in crisis, and as more and more consumers see 'made in italy' labels as actually being 'made in romania', 'turkey' or 'china' under the un-inspired dominance of Italian industrialists, a new backlash generation of designers are taking things into their own hands, and actually making real clothes and real designs with originality, passion and heart once again in Italy. But you won't find them in any Italian fashion magazines, yet...
Masnada "Our imperative is not to be victims of any trends, but to create our own style" Masnada has been manufacturing women's clothing since 1995. Slowly but surely, they have been creating a loyal following inside the Italian market working with a new generation of research-oriented personalized shops Antonio Marras' exquisite and exclusive concept store "Alguer". "Our proposals are not derived out of any schemes so there is no specific time or manner to be dressed or put together. We like to leave our clients free to interpret the best way of wearing our clothes. Our imperative is not to be victims of any trends but to create our own style. The value and quality of our products is reinforced by its Italian origin, both in the choice of raw materials and in the artisans around Florence and Prato in Tuscany that work and manufacture it." Showing for the first time in Paris to the world market, their spring/summer women's collection will comprise a full range of women's clothing made up in all-Italian natural noble fibre materials of cotton, linen, silk and viscose, with special treatments in sobre and natural colors.. Exclusively at Area 18. By appointment. Distribution Limited.
Rose e Sassi "building a name the old-fashioned way, one great piece at a time" Alessandra Marchi is at first glance a shy, modest and elegant person. But underneath lies a passionate and dedicated fighter, for exquisite beauty executed in only one way...the best and most creative as she believes is humanely possible. She accepts no less in every design and every piece she puts her Rose e Sassi label on--living, working and making everything in Tuscany. Exclusively at Area 18 for the second time. By appointment. Distribution Limited.
MM Monaco Metropolitano "Only for the best stores in the world" MM Monaco Metropolitano stands for "non si lavora, e amore"...no work, and love. Deep in the dark recesses of their antica Florentine studio near the Ponte Vecchio hides a new artisanal valkyrie making truly killer hand made bags, belts and accessory pieces in leather. But don't ask for too much, or too many. Their production and availability is limited by their motto....if there is too much work involved or not enough love, they are not interested. Only for the best stores in the world. Showing to the world market for the first time in Paris. Exclusively at Area 18. Distribution extremely limited.
Lavanderia 18. Sandra Dal Pont "Pursuing the dream" Sandra Dal Pont is from Feltre, a medieval mountain town in the pre-dolomite province of Belluno in the Veneto region of northern Italy with narrow streets, old buildings and a sunset that dissappears early behind the mountains which surround it. Since childhood, she has had a passion for making great things to wear, and her career is a compelling story of commitment to that passion. She has completed not one, but two, extensive academic design school programs: the Istituto Callageri in Treviso specializing in classical tailoring and patternmaking, and then the special Fondo Sociale Europeo (FSE) program in Belluno where she was specially selected to attend. Upon finishing the FSE program, she was immediately picked up by Replay/Fashion Box Industries SpA in nearby Asolo, where she worked almost five years as an assistant in the Replay Collection design departments under Christiana Carradini and the late Claudio Bujiol. There, Dal Pont was involved in the development and production of the knitwear and t-shirt collections which contributed some 80-100 million euros in annual sales a year for the Replay brand. In 2006, at age 30, with an extensive array of experience from beginning to end of the clothes making process, Dal Pont decided to pursue her dream--making artisanal clothes by hand and controlling the entire process from fabric and pattern to final sales. Her convincing business plan was soon chosen by Svillupo Italia for a 30,000 euro financing award to help start her firm. She acquired special fabric washing and treatment equipment, fabrics, and set up in a small lavanderia room in her family's 15th century house in Feltre at numero civico 18. This month, she has been selected and invited to show at Area in Paris for the very first time, where she will present her first capsule collection of about 10 special handmade sportswear pieces in superfine, lightweight Italian cotton poplin and gabardine with special washes and treatments cut from patterns that harmonize the body. Showing to the world market for the first time in Paris. Exclusively at Area 18. Distribution extremely limited.
Geoffrey B. Small limited edition "I came to Italy to make the best clothes in the world, and I remain here for the same reasons" American avant-garde designer Geoffrey B. Small came to Italy seven years ago after 2 decades of making clothes by hand in Boston and some 25 collections presented in Paris. Signed to a licensing agreement with a manufacturer in the powerful Veneto region, he soon became disillusioned with the mass-commercial, over-industrialized state of the Italian fashion system and its suffocating effects on creative design and culture. After consultations with colleagues including Carpe Diem creator Maurizio Altieri and Paris retailer Armand Hadida, he ended the license agreement and formed his own limited edition artisan micro-production firm to produce and distribute his special made by hand research collections using only the very best suppliers in all of Italy. With a maximum production of around 500 total pieces and distribution limited to 15 store clients for the world per season, the collection is one of the most exclusive in the world market, and has consistently sold-out in Paris fashion weeks. Perhaps more importantly, its continuing use of the most advanced Italian artisanal resources combined with the designer's 27-year commitment to avant-garde design and world research has made it a leading trendsetter in the industry worldwide (see "Schola" story opposite column).
Monica Trevisi "contamination" A
cosmopolitan spirit and insatiable interest in new cultures are the
inspiration behind Monica Trevisi's collections, which, through
constant research into materials and styles - conjure up the
atmospheres and enchantment of faraway lands. Born in South America,
Trevisi divides her time between Italy, where she attended Venice's
Faculty of Oriental Languages, the United States and her native land. However,
the lure of different lifestyles is strong and this, coupled with her
passion for new situations, promises to keep her travelling. The
designer works and makes her pieces by hand in Treviso and now sells
her work in to very special stores in eight countries including Sbaiz
Spazio Moda, Pozzi Lei e Lui, Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, and the
Museum of Arts and Design in Chicago. Her newest collection is a place
where contamination reigns supreme, merging chains and
karabiners with rubber, semi-precious stones, plastic and leather.
Inherently cold or heavy metal materials of industrial origin are
seductively assembled to form jewellery that surprises with gentleness.
Strictly handmade, they work equally well as necklaces or belts: with
no two pieces the same, expressing the essence and creativity of the
person who chooses them. Showing in Paris for the very first time to
the world market. Exclusively at Area 18. Distribution limited.
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Area provides a very special artistic platform
for the newest and the best of independent design. It is the world's
leading show for independent designers at a specific international
level- open exclusively to designers who create, distribute, produce,
and finance original collections entirely in-house. It is the only show
in the industry at the world level organized by designers. It's unique
showroom format, defile fashion shows, and Live Shoot presentations
have pioneered industry trends and generated over 3 million cumulative
impressions in fashion media coverage worldwide. Since 2003, more than
55 independent designers from Europe, Asia and North America have
presented over 165 individual collection presentations in Paris
exclusively at Area to the international industry. No less than 39 of
these were world premiere introductions. A story of persistence in
freedom of expression, artistic integrity, and economic independence in
the face of growing global corporate fashion interests at all levels--
Area is now entering its 18th consecutive edition. Exclusively in Paris
from 3-6 October at the Espace Saint Martin 4th floor, 199bis rue Saint
Martin 75003. |
area
edition 18. "new realities"
featuring 6 paris world premieres.
reserve
your place now right here copyright 2007 Area/Geoffrey B. Small all rights reserved. |
